Monday, October 22, 2012

Jelly Roll Beginnings

Today's muse begins with the fact that yesterday was Jelly Roll Morton's birthday. Born in 1890, Ferdinand Joseph LaMothe was the first jazz composer, notating jazz into permanent form, something quite unheard of for a musical method which, up to that point, had been purely based on improvisation. Anyways, getting to my story, the old boy was from New Orleans, home to jazz, blues, and just all around, dang good music. So, when my wife and I went to the Crescent City for our 9 year (this past July), I was stoked to get out for a night to here some good live music.
http://www.neworleansonline.com


We stayed the night at a great little hotel, Hotel St. Helene. It was located in the heart of the French Quarter. More than adequate considering we pretty well just spent the night there, and only the later hours. Per the advice of the hotel front desk lady, we decided to go to The Frenchmen district, as it has more of the local flavor. So, straight to Cafe du Monde we went (to insure we were prepped for a late night), then down the way towards Frenchmen Street.
http://www.frenchquarterhotelgroup.com/hotel-st-helene.html

After a slightly creepy walk through the dark crappy streets dividing the the crazy Bourbon Street based area and The Frenchmen District, we began seeing bright lights, foot traffic, and hearing the very welcome sound of live music. Jazz music, to be specific. The first place we came to was too packed, but the band was right there to be heard from outside, so we stood and listened a bit. Then, we made our way up and down the two block strip (even a little beyond, oops) and we settled on a nice little club, The Maison. They were playing more contemporary jazz. We liked the sounds, the scene, and the drinks. However, that band only played about 2 more songs once we were seated, then it was music through the PA for a bit, but we landed decent seats for the next band.
http://maisonfrenchmen.com

Now, I am thinking jazz. That is what I kept telling my wife I was after. That said, I had a taste here and there, and sure enough, I was pleased. Then, this next band starts setting up. I see the guitarist first, a mid 20s, long haired, recent college drop out looking guy. He breaks out a  baby blue telecaster, which was pretty smooth looking. I soon discovered he was the singer and the head of the band. Next, the keys are setting up. A modern looking rig, but as soon as he hits a few notes to check his volume, I realize it is set to a pretty good Hammond sound. Then, the tenor sax, right up front and center. Finally, a bit late, this frumpy hat, long haired kid shows up. Clearly, yup, the bass player. He hands out high fives all around, and we get started. Note, I am not a huge funk fan. Nothing against it, I just don't follow it much. In a matter of moments, the groove was all around and the jazz feel was enveloped right along as they past around the James Brown. It was highly entertaining watching these guys move the crowd with grooves that were right on. Well played, boys.
Sorry, can't give credit though, for the life of me, it was, indeed, a New Orleans' night.

That said, we then went and paid our respect to Bourbon Street. Along the way, there were plenty of young musicians just playing on the curb, stringed instruments, a cappella, brass, just guitars, all sorts. We tried to hang and listen to a song or two by most. Then, we went to Pat O'Brian's like good tourists, got Hurricane's (my  wife had never had, nor heard of them, nor does she care to again), and the night snowballed all the way down to me swimming in the frigid pool at the hotel before beddy bye. Long story short, New Orleans is, without a doubt, a major music center and one all should get out and enjoy!
http://www.patobriens.com/patobriens/neworleans/

Happy Birthday, Jelly Roll!

Photo: David Smith
New Orleans: Good music, good drinks. Verified.

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